Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine and, at over 1,500 years old, one of Eastern Europe’s oldest cities, is slowly recovering from the economic downturn that hit the world two years ago. I was curious about the city and went there recently to find out what it can offer the demanding modern traveler.

I discovered that Ukrainian airlines fly direct from Stockholm’s Arlanda International, but I decided to fly SAS out of Copenhagen, as it is only two hours from Kyiv. The big advantage of visiting Ukraine instead of Russia is that EU citizens (as well as Americans, Canadians and many others) don’t need a visa. This makes coming and going to Ukraine immensely easier. Moreover, Kyiv’s Boryspil International Airport is only about 30 minutes by taxi or bus from downtown. If you are staying at a first class hotel like the Premier Palace Hotel in the heart of Kyiv, you can, for a reasonable fee, even order a shuttle bus in advance. Ukraine’s time is GMT + 2 hours. (www.Kyiv.info).

A majority of people in Ukraine speak Ukrainian, but they also understand Russian and many speak it. Both languages use the Cyrillic alphabet, which means that many signs and street markers are in Cyrillic, making it a bit tricky for the non-Slavic visitor to get around. Unlike Western Europe, most people, even young people in the capital, do not speak English, although they will do their best to help you out.

The greatest reason to visit Kyiv is evident from the city’s historical name, Golden-Domed Kyiv (Zolotoverkhiy Kyiv). Yes, this is a city of cathedrals and churches, many of which have been restored, rebuilt or refurbished after a century of destruction, and some of them are breathtakingly beautiful. Another must-see in Kyiv is the Golden Gate, a replica of one of the seven gates that once let visitors into the heart of the city. Or stroll down Naberezhne shosse (chaussee in French, meaning raised roadway) along the Dnipro River, a major shipping route to the Black Sea.

Churches are not the only architectural draw in Kyiv. On grand boulevards like Khreshchatyk, Kyiv’s main street, you will also find excellent examples of architecture near the Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) and also along bulvar Shevchenka, which crosses one end of Khreshchatyk. The most striking is the “Ukrainian baroque” style, which is two-toned plasterwork, usually white and a pastel color.

The city’s boulevards are impressive and grand, generally lined with chestnut trees or poplars. Here you’ll find top class boutiques and shops that you can find in any European capital, and more. Because of the weak local currency, the hryvnia, however, prices on imported goods are very high. You are better off buying local products, especially horilka (vodka in Russian) that you can find for as little as two Euros/liter depending on brand and quality. Don’t buy imported champagnes and wines since they are very expensive. Restaurant prices in Kyiv are just below Swedish prices.

The rest of the city is very accessible due to a modern subway system. But if you decide to take a wander beyond the beautiful downtown area, be careful where you put your foot, since the sidewalks are not always up to western standards.

Most Sourze readers who are familiar with my column know that I like to stay at very good hotels and that’s what I did during my stay in Ukraine. Kyiv has many classy hotels, but none have the charm of the Premier Palace Hotel (www.premier-palace.com). The Premier Palace is part of a Ukrainian hotel chain that is small but high-end and is also a member of an international hotel club, The Most Famous Hotels in the World, the same as Grand Hotel St. Petersburg that I visited earlier this year. The Premier Palace opened for the first time in 1912 and has been completely renovated since 2001 to reflect its original flair and exclusivity. The Hotel boasts 289 rooms, including 27 suites and apartments, and offers both executive and classic luxury accommodation for both business travelers and tourists. Rates start at EUR 295 per night for a standard room. All rooms have luxury interiors and bathrooms, cable internet, HD TV and much more. The Presidential Suite on the top floor has a marvelous view of downtown Kyiv.

On the top floor of the Premier Palace, you’ll also find a lounge open to both hotel guests and outsiders. It is a heavenly treat to sip a glass of champagne after a full day of walking and watching the daily life of Kyivites, walking from one place to another. I was struck by the fact that the people of Kyiv are all very well dressed, no matter from where they come from, low or high society.

The Premier Palace also has a reasonably-priced, relaxed SPA and Fitness Center with very competent staff. With its exclusive mosaic patterns, the Hotel’s pool is one of the best examples of an elegant pool in a hotel that I have ever seen. It’s also easy accessible from your hotel room. The side lifts take visitors all the way down to the pool very discretely.

After an intense day filled with impressions, you will have worked up a good appetite. There are several excellent restaurants to choose from. One of the restaurants I visited during my stay was Premier Palace’s new Mediterranean restaurant, the Terracotta. Being on the 8th floor, it offers not only contemporary cuisine of high quality at moderate prices, but a beautiful panorama of downtown Kyiv as well. The Terracotta has various special and seasonal offers. During my stay, strawberries were in focus and you could have everything, from appetizers to entrées to desserts, with strawberries in it. I fell for the braised veal stuffed with strawberries, which was an exquisite experience. I finished with a delicious dessert consisting of strawberries, cream, ice cream, meringue and burnt sugar on top—what a flavor fest! The restaurant has also a huge wine cellar that offers top-of-the-shelf wines from Italy and France. Remember to reserve a seat in the non-smoking section by the windows.

Outside Ukraine, Ukrainian cuisine is mostly world famous for its Chicken Kyiv, a stuffed chicken dish that I actually tried during my business luncheon at Premier Palace. Priced competitively, I found it delicious! One of my most surprising visits was to an Italian restaurant called Stefano’s Fine Food Factory on vul. Volodymyrska 4, close to the local market in the Old Town that offers all kinds of things, from tacky souvenirs to some really surprising finds. The service at Stefano’s Fine Food Factory was very attentive and pleasant. When I entered the restaurant to view the menu, the hostess, speaking fluent English, gave me a guided tour in the restaurant, which I appreciated a lot. The interior design is modern and quite spectacular, especially the ceiling lamp with its more than 100 light bulbs (!). But what also makes the restaurant special and worth a visit is the appetizers. I was given aged parmesan, olives and bell peppers, all and all a perfect start to a very nice lunch. I ordered the lasagna—and it was well worth the wait, since I knew for sure that they prepare the dishes only when they are ordered. As a sweet finish, I actually did not try the Tiramisu, which I usually do. Instead, I tried the homemade gelato and sorbet. Another example of Stefano’s high standard: they gave me a complimentary scoop of ice cream.

Many Swedes still associate Ukraine with the 1986 accident at the Chornobyl nuclear power plant, only 1 hour by car from Kyiv. The catastrophe transformed the nearby new town of Prypiat into a ghost town. Today, 25 years later, no one lives here, and plants and animals have mutated. It’s possible to visit both Chornobyl and Prypiat, as the radiation is no longer present. Premier Palace Hotel has several guides they work with that they can recommend.

The best times of the year to visit Kyiv and Ukraine are springtime and autumn. And why stop at Kyiv? Ukraine is a country with a long and exciting history and the remnants of the past dot its countryside.

Mikael Björnfot

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